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Dear Calla,
My best friend –I'll call her Betty – says that my boyfriend should have at least given me "gold-filled" earrings, not "gold plated" ones. But my boyfriend – I'll call him Bob – says they are "vermeil". What's the difference!? Do I have a cheap boyfriend?
– Hidden Valley Hopeful


Dear Hidden,
Let's get right to it. First of all, we'll define gold-filled (G.F.). Gold-filled is a thin layer of gold bonded to a less expensive base metal ( usually brass or bronze). Since the inside base metal is covered by the gold, the piece of jewelry gives the appearance of gold, at a substantially reduced price. In all gold filled items, the weight of the gold must be at least 5% of the total weight of the piece.
"Gold Plated" jewelry is made by the same method as gold-filled, except that the weight of the gold can be less than 5% of the total weight of the piece. Thus gold-plated jewelry is less expensive and less durable than gold-filled.
Next, "vermeil" (pronounced vur-may) is gold-plating over a sterling silver base. Because gold and silver have a metallic affinity for each other, the gold tends to wear, or last longer than over other base metals. If I can't have solid 14kt or 18kt gold jewelry, my next choice is vermeil.
So go easy on Bob. Vermeil is very nice stuff.
– Calla

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